JAPAN: Man tried for Akihabara stabbing spree pleads guilty, apologies

Jan 27 10:46 PM US/Eastern

AP

TOKYO, Jan. 28 (AP) - (Kyodo)—The man charged with the June 2008 fatal stabbing rampage in Tokyo's Akihabara district that killed seven and wounded 10 pleaded guilty Thursday and apologized to the victims of the crime.

Tomohiro Kato, 27, said in the first hearing of the case at the Tokyo District Court that he is "certainly the one who committed the crime" although he cannot remember some parts of what happened on the day of the Sunday afternoon attack.

"I'm sorry for the people who died and got injured," said Kato, who was clad in a white shirt and a black suit, bowing his head.

The prosecution argued in its opening statement that Kato "did not receive decent treatment" at the office where he was employed as a temporary worker and "felt that what he wrote about in a cell-phone website was ignored."

"So he hit on the idea of getting other people to acknowledge his existence by erupting in anger and setting off a major crime."

Kato allegedly warned in advance of his crime on the website along with a number of posts in which he vented his frustration with his workplace.

The prosecution also said Kato was inspired by a fatal indiscriminate stabbing spree that occurred in March 2008 in Ibaraki Prefecture as well as an April 2005 incident in which three people were killed after a truck crashed into a shopping arcade in Sendai.

"It is apparent that he kept those incidents in mind and decided to kill people at random in Akihabara, where he had been a number of times before," according to the prosecution.

The focus of the trial is expected to be on a psychiatric examination that found him mentally competent at the time of the crime.

The prosecution indicted Kato on charges of murder and attempted murder based on the mental evaluation result.

On Thursday, the defense team questioned the exam result, suggesting Kato was mentally incompetent during the spree.

Kato is charged with running down five pedestrians, three of whom died, with a truck in a vehicle-free shopping area on June 8, 2008, and fatally stabbing four passersby with a dagger after getting out of the vehicle.  Eight others were injured in the stabbings, while one policeman was attacked but unharmed, according to the indictment.

The incident in the Tokyo electronics area, a popular district that attracts Japanese and foreign comic and animation fans, drew attention to the fragile situation facing temporary workers.

No citizen judges are taking part in the trial because he was indicted in October 2008, before the law on the lay judge system took effect.

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JAPAN: A soba adventure in Tokyo

Two kinds of soba at Nemurian. Fukushima on the left, and Tochigi on the right.

January 28, 2010

(Mainichi Japan)

"The soba comes from Yamagata," the woman said as she placed a box of thick, chewy soba noodles in front of me. Her name was Mori, and her family sold soba noodles in Yamagata.

Her husband trained there for a year before they opened their own soba restaurant in Tokyo. I was in Tokyo to celebrate the new year with my wife's family. Because soba is a traditional meal, we decided to make the most of it.

One of the things I like about Japanese culture is the near obsession that Japanese have with food ingredients. In New York, you can find a broader variety of food than in Tokyo, but in Tokyo you can travel deep into each type of Japanese dish.

The Mori's at their restaurant, Genshiro.

Our soba journey is a perfect example. At Genshiro, they grind their own soba flour on the premises, and make their noodles by hand. We discussed the thick, chewy soba. It reminded me of the chewy soba in Gujo that's called mochi mochi soba because of it's al dente texture. Genshiro serves the noodles with their special pheasant broth. It was a delicious combination.

The next day, we traveled to Akihabara to a hidden soba restaurant in a prewar building. The neighborhood is filled with stores and cafes that cater to various obsessions. There are anime shops, maid cafes, cosplay stores and electronics boutiques everywhere. True to the spirit of the nerd, Nemurian is for serious soba otaku.

The restaurant is run by an interesting man. He grinds the soba in his tiny shop each morning. But he selects soba from wherever he thinks is best for the season. Soba lovers are served two different kinds of soba noodles. Each plate is soba from a different part of Japan.

On the day we went, we ate soba from Tochigi and Fukushima. When they came to our table, set side by side, we noticed the Tochigi soba had a slight green color. The Fukushima soba had a rich soba flavor and a more delicate texture. The Tochigi soba was chewier and more subtle. It was really fun to taste two different kinds of soba side by side, and they both went well with the handmade tofu that was as rich as butter.

While we ate, we listened to jazz on the tube amplifier that the owner built himself. I felt like I was in the presence of a soba artist, enjoying his meal in his personal studio. Maybe that's because he sleeps upstairs.

Our last stop was the famous Yoshida restaurant in Ginza. I first ate there several years ago when my wife's dance teacher took us there. Yoshida has a classic Japanese feel, and it always seems to be busy. Their specialty is tenseiro, a cluster of deep fried vegetables and shrimp dropped into a bowl of salty broth with delicate soba noodles on the side.

Watching the crowd of well-dressed Ginza shoppers is almost as much fun as slurping up the extra long noodles. All three restaurants were wonderful, and it was a great way to celebrate the coming of the new year. (By Sean Sakamoto)

Sean Sakamoto traded the fast times in New York City for the slow life in Japan's countryside. He lives with his wife and son by a river in Gifu Prefecture. He's learning Japanese and wants everyone who's studying English to know that he feels your pain.

View Article in The Mainichi Daily News

Off the Brochure Travel Guide: Tokyo, Japan

Off the Brochure Travel Guide: Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo is a massive, hyper-modern metropolis with a million and one things to do, and reams of articles could be written about it.

In fact, entire guide books could be written about stuff that isn’t in the guide books. But we’ve got a few experiences that you’re unlikely to stumble across while you’re reading a brochure.

And remember, when in Tokyo, be sure to do some exploring on your own. It’ll be worth it.

Ramen Museum

What? A museum dedicated to ramen? If all you’ve ever eaten is the pre-packaged version sold in the U.S., we’re sure you’ll question the sanity of this idea, but ramen is an art form in Japan and this museum treats it that way.

OK, so maybe the displays on matchbooks and curtains from ramen shops are a bit silly. However, the theme park inside the museum, which replicates a street scene from 1958 and includes a whole bunch of shops serving various regional ramen variations, is undeniably cool. Our sources tell us that this isn’t the best ramen in Japan, but the concept is interesting enough to deserve attention.

The ramen museum (its full name in Japanese is Shin-Yokohama Ramen Hakubutsukan) is located close to the Japan Rail Shin-Yokohama station. Admission is 300 yen. Unfortunately, a bowl of ramen is not included in the price.

Kirin Factory

If you know Japanese beer, you know Kirin, but did you know that you can take a tour of the factory? They’ll show you how the beer is made and then let you taste it for free. You can’t beat that. The tour lasts about an hour, and reservations are required. Note that the tour is conducted only in Japanese, but we believe beer transcends language. The factory is located near Namamugi station in Yokohama.

Ghibli Museum

If you’re an anime fan, a visit to the Ghibli Museum is a must, but even if you’re not, you’ll still enjoy this mazelike, interactive house of wonders dedicated to the works of Studio Ghibli, responsible for Spirited Away, Princess Mononoke, and My Neighbor Totoro, among other titles.

Inside the museum, you’ll find a mock-up anime studio and exhibits related to many of Studio Ghibli’s films. The exhibits really aren’t the most interesting part of the museum, though. There is no fixed route through the structure and visitors are encouraged to explore its spiral staircases, causeways, ledges, bridges, and twisting, narrow halls. Plants grow from the outside walls of the building and a giant robot stands tall atop it.

The Ghibli Museum is located in Mitaka (go to Mitaka station on the Chuo line). Note that tickets must be purchased in advance. The travel agency JTB (www.jtbusa.com/enhome/) would be glad to sell you one.

What Kind of Otaku Are You?

Hardcore anime and manga fans already know what the term “otaku” means. The closest English equivalent is “fanboy.” The word refers to somebody who’s so deeply burrowed into a particular niche, be it stamp collecting, video games, toy trains, whatever, that he or she fails to lead more than perfunctory existence in the real world.

Akihabara, Japan’s main electronics district, is known as the computer/video game otaku capital of the Planet Earth. Akihabara’s main drag is essentially a huge heap of electronics shops and nearly nothing else. Akihabara is a cool place to visit, but it’s definitely on the brochure because tourists like to go there to buy cameras.

Here are a few other places with shops catering to a particular niche that are less likely to pop up in your guidebook. These sorts of districts are part of what makes Tokyo unique, and there are a number of them to be explored.

Jinbocho is to used books what Akihabara is to electronics. If stacks of musty old paperbacks really make your day, you must go there. You’ll find book upon book in shop after cluttered, dusty shop. Don’t look for this place in Lonely Planet – just hop on the subway and make your way to Jinbocho station if you’re interested in checking it out.

Ochanomizu is to the guitar what Jinbocho is to used books. There, you’ll find what must be the world’s densest collection of guitar shops. There are stacks of Fenders and loads of Les Pauls. You won’t find any Japanese traditional instruments there, and you won’t find any violins or any oboes, just guitars.

Okay, there might be some drums, basses, and keyboards hanging around as well. Once again, if you’re interested in checking it out, just make your way to Japan Rail’s Ochanomizu station. The guitar shops are easy to find. Just follow the young guys with purple hair.

If you get excited by the idea of a couple hours spent wandering through William-Sonoma, visit Kappa Street, also known as “Kitchen Town.” The street is lined with stores selling all kinds of kitchen wares– this is where the restaurants of Tokyo get their supplies. You can find deals on unique pottery, plates, teacups and sake sets, as well as bring home a Japanese vegetable knife, or usuba hocho. These knives can be difficult to find in the U.S., but a medium to good quality knife on Kappa Street can run from $40-$100.

There are even whole districts devoted to particular foods – for instance, Tsukishima, which is known for its overwhelming multitude of monjayaki shops. Monjayaki is a Tokyo specialty that somewhat resembles the more popularly known okonomiyaki. It is essentially a type of pancake/omelet which is cooked in front of you on a griddle. There are truly a mass of monjayaki outlets in Tsukishima, a district of the city built on a man-made island. Just get off the train at Tsukishima station and follow your nose.

Fun at Yoyogi

Tokyo’s locals tend to be quiet and reserved, perhaps by necessity (do you really want to have a conversation with the person whose elbow is digging into your spine on a rush hour train that’s crammed to the gills?). If you want to see them cutting loose, go to Yoyogi Park, located near the fashion district of Harajuku, on a Sunday.

You’ll find drum circles, people dancing, punk bands blasting out loud music, and so on. Just about anything crazy that anyone has ever done on a city street is acted out there each week. It is truly something to see.

Yunessun and Mori No Yu

If you’re ready for a respite from Tokyo’s pulsing neon and bustling crowds, take a day trip to the much smaller and quieter city of Hakone, which is about an hour and a half by train from Tokyo. Why visit Hakone?

Well, there are tons and tons of onsen (hot springs) there. Often, an onsen is a place where people bathe together nude in very hot water, but if the idea of getting naked with strangers makes you a tad uncomfortable, don’t worry. Hakone’s Yunessun is an onsen theme park which is mostly nudity-free, and a number of the baths there are very unique. For instance, there’s a Dead Sea spa with a sodium content so high you’ll float, a sake spa which we think probably won’t intoxicate you (but no promises), a green tea spa, and so on.

If you don’t mind shedding your skivvies, that kind of hot spring is also available at the nearby Mori No Yu facility, which is dedicated to outdoor baths in beautiful settings. Admission to Yunessun alone is 3500 yen; Mori No Yu alone is 1800 yen; both together will run you 4000 yen.

There’s a hotel onsite if you feel like making this more than just a day trip. Since the location is a bit out of the way, we recommend following the directions on the Web site (http://www.yunessun.com/english/index.html).

Rush Hour

If you want to have a truly authentic Tokyo experience, try riding a train at rush hour. Maybe you’ll even meet with one of those guys in white gloves who comes around to push the flailing mass of people into the train so the door can close! Go between 8 a.m. and 9 a.m. for the optimum rush hour experience. The Saikyo, Keio, and Chuo lines are highly recommended.

By Mike Day for PeterGreenberg.com.

Finding Free and Cheap Travel Activities in Expensive Japan - TOKYO

Finding Free and Cheap Travel Activities in Expensive Japan

Japan is notable for its modern antiquity, bustling city life, and enough fluorescent lights to give any traveler’s eyes a workout.

But with the current economic climate, the Land of the Rising Sun might also be confused with the Land of the Rising Budget, especially for travelers.

However, there are plenty of activities in Japan that are affordable—and even free—meaning you can cover a great deal of territory even on a tiny budget.

TOKYO

Each neighborhood in Tokyo has its own distinct appeal, plus dozens of free and cheap activities, so no one could ever dare complain that the city is boring. Tiring, yes—but never boring.

Though it’s incredibly touristy, stopping into a Japanese temple should still be at the top of your list of things to do. Senso-ji Temple, located in the Asakusa neighborhood, allows you to absorb Japanese culture while also experiencing the craziness of urban Tokyo life.

The main pathway leading up to the temple is lined with little shops that sell everything from rice cakes to key chains to samurai swords. The crowds can be a bit overwhelming, but if you just keep moving, you’ll be fine. It’s worth the effort to see the temple and the second tallest pagoda in Japan, which stands nearby. Best of all, both sites are free, which means you can save your money for more important things—like the sake set you’ve been eyeing since you entered the temple grounds.

Near Asakusa is Ueno Park, which is home to several temples, a museum and an art gallery. A stroll through this park provides a respite from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, but still allows visitors to see some important sights. Cherry trees are abundant here, with blossoms reaching their peak in early April.

Although it’s definitely “on the brochure,” take some time to visit Tokyo Tower (modeled after the Eiffel Tower) just before dusk, where a ticket to the top earns you two spectacular views: the Tokyo skyline at sunset, followed by the city at night. On clear days, you can see the sunlight dancing upon Mount Fuji’s silhouette in the distance. www.tokyotower.co.jp/english

Your inner geek will emerge at Akihibara Electronic Town, a gadget-lovers paradise that’ll whet your appetite for anything with a “play” button. It might even make you rethink your budget, since prices here are pretty reasonable. In addition, many of the items at Akihibara won’t show up in the States for at least a year, thus giving you bragging rights to your friends back home. The area is also packed with toy stores that cater to the 7-year-old inside us all. www.akiba.or.jp/english

Seasoned travelers know about the Tsukiji Central Fish Market, and often make a point of dragging their friends at 5 a.m to this boisterous wholesale auction market where local merchants and restaurateurs compete to get the freshest and most desirable catch of the day. Yes, it can be a challenge to convince someone to get up that early to watch fish being sold, but it’s one of the better Tokyo experiences.

Don’t miss more tips with Cheapskate Confessions: Japan on a Budget

Fishmongers shout out prices and throw seafood around while visitors simply look on (and duck). Everything from giant tuna to baby octopus is available there—and don’t forget to enjoy some of the freshest sushi you will ever eat before heading back to your hotel for a mid-morning nap. Visitors are welcome, but remember to be respectful. The government only recently lifted a tourist ban, which was a result of some previously inconsiderate foreign visitors. www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

Depending on your time frame, consider a quick day trip to the small city of Gotemba. Located at the foot of Mount Fuji, Gotemba and the surrounding area can be reached by the Shinkansen high-speed train in about an hour and a half. Once you get off the train at Gotemba, hop on one of the buses that continually run up to any one of the volcano’s “fifth stations.”

During climbing season (July–August) travelers can summit Mount Fuji via a number of different ascent routes on all sides of the volcano. The last stop accessible by road on these ascents is called the fifth station, which acts as a sort of base camp and is a great starting point for a mountain climb. While no climbing experience is needed to summi Mt. Fuji, you should be in good shape and definitely participate in a guided excursion. Most climbers begin their journey in the dead of night so that they are able to watch the sunrise at the summit. www.city.gotemba.shizuoka.jp/indexe.html


Text and Photos (except as indicated) by Karl I. Muller for PeterGreenberg.com.