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Sunday, April 11, 2010

HONG KONG: Hip Cafes in a Hong Kong Noodle District

Part of the selection at Tuckshop in Tai Hang, a neighborhood in Hong Kong. Part of the selection at Tuckshop in Tai Hang, a neighborhood in Hong Kong/Veronica Zaragovia

April 11, 2010, 6:00 am

By VERONICA ZARAGOVIA

Hong Kong locals will tell you the island’s Central district is for “gweilos,” a derogatory term for non-Chinese people, and they wouldn’t be too far off. The district is home to high-end boutiques, clubs and plenty of Westerners.

But four metro stops to the east is the quiet, charming neighborhood of Tai Hang.

As recently as a few years ago, the area was best known for its auto repair shops. But now, Tai Hang (which means “Long Gutter” in Cantonese), an easy 10-minute jaunt from exit B of the Tin Hau MTR stop, is full of fruit stalls and noodle shops nestled between hip cafes owned and staffed by Hong Kongers.

Mimi Liu, manager of Tuckshop, an Asian dessert store and bakery in Tai Hang, says she hopes that as the neighborhood evolves, it stops short of becoming the next Central.

“The rent is already almost double,” Liu said, compared to when Tuckshop opened two years ago.

For now, visitors to Tai Hang don’t come to see or be seen — they come to relax before or after hitting the bustling shopping area of Causeway Bay. Here are some spots worth the sidetrack to rest your feet and grab a pick-me-up.

Tuckshop (1 Lily Street; 852-2571-1648) has bright pink awnings and brick walls, and specializes in small treats like Korean and Filipino ice cream bars.

A latte at Café Y Taberna.

A latte at Café Y Taberna.  Veronica Zaragovia

Café Y Taberna (16C King Street; 852-2577-7165) is decorated with a full wall-sized bookshelf, wooden floors and hanging lamps. It boasts a wide selection of Belgian beers, gourmet lattes with decorated milk foam; a short menu of Thai dishes is also available.

Panda (94 Tung Lo Wan Road 852-2503-5888; http://panda-japanese-curry.blogspot.com/) specializes in hearty Japanese, home-style curry dishes and attracts a mostly teenage clientele.

At Café on the Corner (4 King Street; 852-2882-7135), a jazz soundtrack is paired with a small, mostly Italian menu.

La Casa (7 King Street; 852-6163-1388) offers an oyster bar amid warm lighting and red walls.

To satisfy the sweet tooth, there’s Jam Bakery (28 Shepherd Street; 852-2805-6696; www.jambakery.com), which sells delights like chocolate crème brulée layer cake and mango napoleons; baking lessons are also available.

GuGu cafe (19 School Street; 852-2895-0019) has housemade cakes, truffles and cookies, a minimalist décor, and plenty of natural light.

If the pastel mint green walls at Mr. Sweetheart (Sun Fat Mansion, 144 Tung Lo Wan Road; 852-3175-3868) don’t draw you in, its fruit smoothies and sweet soups, like double boiled aloe with honey and ginseng, might.

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