DALIAN, CHINA: Port Arthur (Lushun)

FROMMER’S:

Lushun -- Known to war historians as Port Arthur, Lushun has been the most important, and most sensitive, naval base in northern China for roughly 100 years. Little used during the Qing dynasty, it became a formidable installation under Russia, was captured and expanded by Japan after the Russo-Japanese War, and was finally returned to Chinese control after World War II. Warning: Most of the area is a military zone and officially off-limits to the public; do not cross the railroad tracks, which mark off the restricted area. For more information, contact the PSB (tel. 0411/8661-3411).

Only two historical sights fall north of Lushun Bei Lu, both of which will appeal primarily to military history buffs. The express air-conditioned coaches to Lushun (1 1/2 hr.; ¥11/$1.45/70p) leave from the square's west side every hour. To reach there by taxi, it costs ¥250-¥300 ($33-$39/£16-£20) round-trip. Some travel agencies, and even the Dalian Tourism Bureau, will claim that you can see other sights, but the only believable authority here is the PSB.